Kirkhill to Fort Augustus

 
A bed! Yes, that's what I heard last night. There's a woman pushing one the whole length of the country. Can you imagine what a police constable"s life must be like in John O"Groat's; constantly arresting naked ramblers, bed pushers, and chickens? I was lucky to get through unobserved. If anyone sees the lady with the bed, and she"s ahead of me, do ask if her if she'd be as kind as to push me back from Land:s End to Exeter.

Last night was supposed to have been a fantastic night to see the Northern lights. But alas, there was a thick layer of cloud. I understand the aurora is visible even in the south, so if it"s clear wherever you are, look out for it. I shall pop out of my bivvy tent in the early hours and scan the skies.

Thanks once again to Alan and Lori for accommodating me last night, and to Alan for sharing his thoughts this morning, in exchange for a Victorian penny. We had a conversation about his experiences as a volunteer ambulance crew member, and as a volunteer coastguard. A theme is emerging in every interview. Life can suddenly be taken away from us. Live it now, and don't waste precious time dwelling on regrets. Alan riding beside me for the first few miles this morning was a great morale boost. I had no idea unicycling was such an established sport. Alan's bike, one of many with diffferent wheel sizes, has gears and brakes. If you have time check out YouTube on Lutz Eicholz and Kris (or Khris) Holm. There's  even a film that includes Lutz unicycling a slack line!   I think the correct term here is 'awesome!' Thoughts for the penny! 

Today I have had offers of accommodation in Worcester, Fort William, and Plymouth. Yesterday Bristol and Ware near Shrewsbury. I've been amazed at people's generosity and hospitality. By the time I get to Land's End, my panniers will be bursting with notes. And that's great news for Ride on in Exeter, and Cycling without Age.

Another theme that seems to be emerging from my conversations, is how much good can come out of bad situations. As Geraldine, a neuroscience nurse from London, who has travelled to far flung places across the globe, told me this evening, she was once mugged in Namibia. But she was treated with such patience, love and care by local people. Which brings me to another theme, the need for authentic connection; where we put away who we think we're supposed to be, or how others would like us to be, and be truly seen. That requires relational risk taking and overcoming fear. 

Today was undoubtedly the best ride to date, I spent two and a half hours climbing a minor road, high up into heathland and mountain. I passed through a forest of beech and birch, greeted by the chirping of a myriad of birds, bubbling of mountain streams and the crashing of waterfalls, a breeze blowing through the trees, and that rich coconut smell of yellow gorse. I.have never seen such bright and magnificent gorse before, here covering vast slopes. I attach a photo, though it doesn't do it justice. As I climbed higher, the breeze became increasingly cool and refreshing, and there was a smell like resin emanating from pine trees. When I saw a layer of fresh snow ahead, I was greatly surprised. Snow in June? It turned out to be a vast area of heathland covered with cotton grass. Again I  attach a photo. One great thing about the penny, is that it forces you to slow down. I began to really notice and observe the tiniest of colourful roadside flowers, like the beautiful, yellow, small cow-wheat melampyrum, That probably makes me sound very learned. The truth is, I just looked it up.

In the afternoon I dropped down into Drumnadrochit, walking at a 45 degree angle, grasping the bike to stop it being pulled away from me by the steepness of the hill. I was then into the long cycle along the touristy Loch Ness to Fort Augustus. The original Gaelic word for the town was Kiliwhimin, renamed following a Jacobite uprising in 1715. They're is an impressive series of lock gates at Fort Augustus, for boats entering or leaving the Caledonian canal.

Now, I am in my bivvy tent, listening to the sound I hate most in this world, snoring! The two guys in a tent close by are in harmony, one deep and guttural, and the other high pitched and whiney. I have a long day ahead of me tomorrow, so must chuck a shoe at them.