Wem to Ludlow

Many thanks to Adele for her hospitality, and for such a delicious breakfast; sausage, bacon, mushroom, egg, toast and tea. Lovely! And a huge thanks to James, John, Neil and Ian, for accompanying me as far Condover, five miles south of Shrewsbury this morning. I'm sorry I set such a pace and wore them out! The coffee and chocolate brownies were well deserved. Good luck to John who is cycling the length of the Camino de Santiago in August.                

The views across the Shropshire countryside, the fields largely given over to wheat, barley, potatoes, broad beans and maze, were delightful. In the strong breeze, the wheat was producing wonderful shifting, swirling patterns. It was another sunny day, and we had clear views of the Welsh mountains and the Shropshire hills of Wenlock Edge and Corve Dale. We passed through Upper Battlefield, and I was instantly reminded of lines I learnt at college over thirty years ago, from 'Rumour' at the start of Shakespeare's Henry IV part II:

I run before King Harry's victory
Who in a bloody field by Shrewsbury
Hath beaten down young Hotspur and his troops
Quenching the flame of bold rebellion
Even with the rebels blood.

On 21st July, in 1403, there was on this site, a famous battle between the Percy family of Northumbria and the Lancastrian King Henry IV. This was to influence English and French history, and lay the  foundations of the War of Roses which dominated the later 15th century. As I recall from my college days, Henry IV was a usurper. Handing the crown to his son Henry on his deathbed, he warns him against other potential rebels. 'They have but their teeth and stings newly ta'en out,' he tells him. His son, of course, was to become the famous Henry V.

No sooner had James, John, Neil, Ian and myself parted company, than the skies opened and I was once again to get a drenching. For a while I sheltered under trees, but when I realised the rain had set in, I cycled on, eventually sheltering in the church porch of All Stretton for the next hour. As quick as the rain had started, so it stopped. The dark black clouds passed, the sun shone brightly, and steam rose from the roads. There was a pleasing sight of a flock of white racing pigeons, circling against the blue sky. Later in the day I was to see and hear buzzards, and another red kite, it's outstretched wings catching a thermal, making flying look effortless. Passing through Church Stretton, I found myself in the middle of a mountain bike race, riders covered in mud, their clothes soaked, racing past. I let them go. I wasn't in the mood for racing. The A49 from Little Stretton, the last of the three 'Stretton' villages, was treacherous; so much so, that I walked several miles, and then made something of a diversion, including cycling through the small village of Onibury, the minor road running through it, running parallel to the A49 for several miles. Here I found a most delightful and informal pub, 'The Apple Tree,' the former village stores and post office. I ordered a half pint of a really delicious stout, 'Black Knight,' produced by a local brewery. The penny once again caused quite a stir. I'm grateful to the landlord, who I imagined could be cast as Magwitch in Great Expectations, for his generous donation to 'Cycling without Age.'

I eventually arrived in Ludlow, where I was to meet my guests for the night, Nick and Bev, both GP's in Ludlow. They live in Whitton, five miles outside Ludlow, but were visiting Nick's mother Peggy, in her eighties, who had greeted me enthusiastically at her doorstep, supported by her zimmer frame. With eager, excited eyes, she proceeded to tell me about a relative of hers, Conrad Snook, who had won medals and a cup for riding a penny farthing.  Having consumed the pot of tea and a plate of strawberries, chocolate, macaroons, a scone and biscuits that had been awaiting me, I set off for Whitton in Nick and Bev's car, leaving the bike in Peggy's hallway. I jokingly told Peggy I didn't want her riding the bike in my absence.

Later that evening, I was to see photos of Conrad Snook, the cup and medals he won, and copies of an article from 'Cycling Times,' of 1882. He won the cup for riding 214.5 miles in 24 hours on the increasingly popular 'Facile' penny farthing, at that time setting a new record. His medals were for two mile and ten mile time trials.

Nick and Bev live in a delightful rambling house, parts of which dates back to Jacobean times. There are views from the tiered garden stretching as far as the Black Mountains. On my arrival, house martins were flying in and out of nests built under the eaves. Later that evening I saw bats, and then saw and heard owls.

Tomorrow I set off for Worcester, where I will stay with Dave Preece, who like me, a couple of month's ago, cycled from John O'Groats to Land's End on a penny. It will be interesting to share stories.